Friday 21 August 2015

Smiths Creek baked Kumera and Yams

It is a bit of a New Zealand classic to bake potatoes in the hot coals of a fire, and then putting large chunks of butter in the finished product. I might do this on another trip, but I wanted to put an different spin on it as this is something I have not seen done (though I am sure it has).

There was a bit of an uproar last week because of the exclusion of bacon from my recipe. Porridge and bacon simply did not appeal to me, but you are welcome to add some if that sounds good to you! I think I made a mistake this week adding it because I'm baconed out. The flavour did not really penetrate into these root vegetables and it did not enhance their natural sweetness. But it sure looked pretty. 

In the US and the UK you would call these vegetables different things. The orange vegetable in the picture below is an Orange Kumera, which is very similar to an American Yam (or sweet potato). The New Zealand yam at the bottom is something else entirely. I think it is called an Oca in the South American Andes (actually I know for sure cause I googled it).

Smiths Creek baked Kumera and Yams

Ingredients:
  • Kumara (any kind will do)
  • Yams (Oca)
  • Tinfoil
  • Bacon (I would not include this again)
  • Smoky Fire

I'm rather chuffed with how I cooked these. I buried them in coals and then covered it all with sand from the river bed for a more controlled temperature. I kept the fire burning around it. I left them to baked them for just over 30 minutes. Next time I would take more tinfoil and wrap more layers as the sand sneaked it's way in and my vegetables and gave me some gritty mouthfuls. 

Smiths Creek is in the Tararua range. The car park has been shifted next to Camp Kitoke which adds a bit of time to the tramp and the sign says it will take 2-3 hours. At a fair clip I did it in 2. A department of conservation website lists it as an Advanced track and I would tend to agree, your grandma would not make it unless she is built like hyena. 

In the beginning you make your way over the aptly named puffer saddle which takes about an hour. The entrance side of it is not too bad, but the Smiths Creek side is rather full on and in a heavy rain would be totally treacherous. You have to contend with very slippery mud and tree roots. The track is often very rocky and it would be very easy to turn an ankle or have a fall. Some of the steeper sections require you to use your hands to traverse and walking along the creek has a number of hazards. 

Once over the puffer you need to cross a number of streams and negotiate slips and the occasional tree fallen across the track. Definitely a tramp that requires some excellent boots (I had some fairly hardcore single piece leather upper boots which were perfect), decent balance, a good pair of legs and a least moderate fitness. Always pack for extreme weather even in summer when heading into this place. If you are a tourist I can't emphasise enough how quickly the weather can turn in NZ and leave you frozen solid on a ridge on what was the sunniest of days,

The smiths creek side of the track is just wow. Beautiful mature dense, dark, rich, wet NZ bush. Ferns, podocarps, beach, pidgeon woods.... moss, epiphytes and lianas carpet the ground and drape from massive old trees.  Total bliss. I'm not religious and don't believe in a higher power, but my wonder of this forest borders on the spiritual.

The entrance side of the puffer

Smiths Creek side of the puffer

One of a number of streams you have to cross

Gorgeous!

Couple old ladies sharing a kiss

Beautiful Matai tree bark

The detour looked more grim than getting across the slips! I choose the later

Mysterious purple penis headed fungus

Smiths Creek Shelter is rather unpleasant, but I would rather be in than out in a downpour.

Back country graffiti

I dug up this awesome photo of the first time I went almost 30 years ago. I was only 10 years old on a school trip and we took the longer Dobson track. You won't believe it but here I am munching on a Bacon Sandwich!!!! I remember lugging a bitch of a heavy frying pan, but it was all worth it to enjoy in front of my teacher while he had his miserable muesli bars.


Nicole today!!


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